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Hardwater
I recently tried to clean the inside of a three story indoor terrarium. For the 1st year of its life the inside garden was misted from inside roof sprinklers three times a day. The next year the company recognized that the well water was staining the windows and installed a DI and ROS that was run at differnt times in order not to kill plants or pit the painted aluminum inside. The hard water mixed with a tropical environment made the windows impossible to clean with normal methods.
The cleaning company in the building started using CL Laurance products on the windows (Bio_clean and it's spot remover), one large pane was taking over 9 man hours and a bunch of produce and palm sanders.
When I was called in one window cleaning company had already been there and caused a permanent hazing with some of the acids we commonly use.
To make the matter harder the owner of the company did not want any non-biodegradable products because of his exotic plants.
I used Bio-Clean, A-1 Hardwater remover, Razor blades, an orbital buffer with white pads (green were scratching), Winsol Crystal Clear 550 and then SafeRestore. None of these products even hardly touched the stain that was on these windows.
I set up three stories of scaffolding in order to be able to use both hands on the buffer. After three days on the job and very little noticeable difference I had to admit to the company that in 18 years in the business, I had found a stain that I could not remove in a reasonable manner.
The company had four of their guys get on the scaffolding and spend three hours a piece on a one foot square piece of glass with palm sanders and Bio-Clean and their spot remover. I told them I was not willing to charge them over $100 to get one foot cleaned.
Alas, I hate defeat. I even asked the company for a water molecular read out (They are a Bio-Lab) so that I could send it to other chemical companies to persue. I did not get a reading after I decided to abandon the project which consisted of three hundred 8 x 8 panes of glass.
What would you have done differently? |
Jeff Spanos
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
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<"What would you have done differently?">
Jeff,
I think what your dealing with is TRUE glass corrosion, which is ONLY caused from an enviroment with moisture, a higher temperature over an extended period of time.
This is exaclty what happens when a I.G. Unit seal fails and moisture gets betwen the glass panes.
My suggestion, try a scratch removal system to remove the corrosion. This might not work if the corrosion is extensive.
Check out my Hard Water Spot Removal DVD, which covers several hard water spot applications.
Most window cleaners don't have the needed knowledge to understand what they are attempting to accomplish.
Know the composition of the water spot and the reaction of the different acid and chemicals.
It doesn't hurt to understand the "Tin" surface your dealing with on "Float Glass."
Good luck,
Dan Fields |
Dan Fields
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
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Dan,
I bought a felt head and an oxide from Rachenstein, but was overwhelmed once I put the three inch head on a drill and knew it was too much to do with a drill and three inchs of felt.
I checked the windows for stage II corrosion and it seemed that most of the corrosion was on top of the glass. I thought this may be titanium glass or self cleaning glass and therefore had run up against Type II, but eventually the stain came off (hours and hours after). This may be several hundred thousands of dollars of glass that need replacing. I may order your DVD...I would love for you to see this place for another opinion. I have pictures but they do not tell the whole story of course.
Jeff Spanos
www.spanoswindowcleaning.com |
Jeff Spanos
Thursday, March 15, 2007
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<<Dan,
I bought a felt head and an oxide from Rachenstein, but was overwhelmed once I put the three inch head on a drill and knew it was too much to do with a drill and three inchs of felt.>>
It would take professional glass restoration equipment to possibly get the job done. Such as the SRP Scratch Removal System we have on our site.
<<I checked the windows for stage II corrosion and it seemed that most of the corrosion was on top of the glass.>>
Glass corrosion does not form "ON" the glass. It actually corrodes the glass surface.
<<I thought this may be titanium glass or self cleaning glass and therefore had run up against Type II, but eventually the stain came off (hours and hours after).>>
Self-cleaning glass has a coating that prevents surface contamination from sticking to the surface.
<<This may be several hundred thousands of dollars of glass that need replacing. I may order your DVD...I would love for you to see this place for another opinion. I have pictures but they do not tell the whole story of course.>>
If you removed some damage with a felt pad and drill, the SRP System should get the job done a lot faster, with it's 3" pad at 6,000 RPMs.
I would contact someone in your area who has the system and give it a try.
Where are you located?
Good Luck,
Dan Fields
Jeff Spanos
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Dan Fields
Saturday, March 17, 2007
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Dan,
Thanks for the reply. When I said the corrosion seemed to be on top, I meant hardwater, not corrosion. I know that actual corrosion starts to change the molecular structre of the glass.
I would love to try or have someone who is used to your system try to clean this glass in fast and better time then what currently is being done.
My office is in Southern New Hampshire. The job is in Peabody MA, near the Atlantic coast NE of Boston.
Any help would be great.
Jeff Spanos |
Jeff Spanos
Monday, March 19, 2007
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Jeff,
Check out my web site of clients with the SRP system in your area. If none are available, call SRP direct at
1-800-328-0042 and ask for Lacey or e-mail her at: direcLaceyL@shatrproof.com
Good luck,
Dan Fields |
Dan Fields
Monday, March 19, 2007
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